The key is inserted into the plug, which will be rotated to move the actuator and retract the locking pawls. Plug – When you look at the keyway of a padlock, you are looking at the plug.
#FCS REMOVER WONT OPEN DRIVER#
Pin chambers – In standard pin tumbler locks, the driver pins must be moved out of the plug into their respective pin chambers so the plug can rotate. There are often three entry points including the plug’s keyway, shackle hole, and drain hole (to allow water to flow out).Īctuator – Located on the back of the plug, this component will retract the locking pawl when the plug is turned. Lock body – The housing for all of the internal components where the shackle secures to the locking pawl. Once caught, the locking pawl will need to be retracted in order for the shackle to pull free from the lock body. Locking Pawl – When the shackle is fully inserted, the cut on the end will catch on the locking pawl.
Cuts at the base of the catch the locking pawls so the shackle does not slide freely out of the lock body. Shackle – The U-shaped length of metal that loops into the hasp on a door, gate, etc. This is not a complete overview of the history of padlocks, just a snapshot of their current form. But when you understand how the most basic lock works, it will give you better insight into when a non-standard padlock won’t open. And not even every keyed padlock uses a pin tumbler system. There are many padlock variations, such as combination locks and U-locks. The most common reasons a padlock won’t open include: In some cases, you will need a locksmith, but this information should allow you to do some of the work yourself. There are many reasons for a padlock not opening, and they have solutions that do not always call for the brute force burglary tactics of cutting, prying, or drilling.
But just because a padlock won’t open does not necessarily mean that the padlock is broken.
0 kommentar(er)
